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Sanded vs. Unsanded Grout: How to Choose the Right Type

In this guide
  1. What Is the Difference Between Sanded and Unsanded Grout?
  2. Sanded vs. Unsanded Grout at a Glance
  3. When to Use Sanded Grout
  4. Advantages of Sanded Grout
  5. Potential Drawbacks
  6. When to Use Unsanded Grout
  7. Advantages of Unsanded Grout
  8. Potential Drawbacks
  9. How Joint Width Affects the Choice
  10. Match the Grout to the Tile Surface
  11. Grout for Floors, Showers, and Backsplashes
  12. Tile Floors
  13. Showers and Other Wet Areas
  14. Kitchen Backsplashes
  15. Cement Grout, Epoxy Grout, and Sealing
  16. Common Grouting Mistakes to Avoid
  17. How to Choose the Right Grout

Choosing between sanded and unsanded grout affects more than a tile project’s appearance. The wrong grout can be difficult to install, may scratch a delicate surface, or may not perform well in the joint. In general, sanded grout is a common choice for wider joints and many floors, while unsanded grout suits narrow joints and scratch-sensitive tile. The best option depends on joint width, tile material, product instructions, and where the tile will be installed.

What Is the Difference Between Sanded and Unsanded Grout?

Sanded grout contains fine aggregate, usually silica sand, mixed with cement and other ingredients. The sand helps the grout resist shrinkage and gives it more body in wider joints. It is generally easier to keep in place when filling a broad gap, although it can feel rougher to work with and clean from textured tile.

Unsanded grout has no added sand aggregate. Its smoother consistency makes it easier to press into narrow joints and can reduce the risk of scratching certain polished or delicate surfaces. However, it may shrink more as it cures in wider joints, so it is not automatically the right choice for every tile or installation.

These descriptions apply primarily to traditional cement-based grout. Modern products also include polymer-modified, high-performance cement grouts and epoxy grouts. Some contain fine aggregates or other ingredients, so “sanded” and “unsanded” may not fully describe their performance. The product label and technical data sheet should guide the choice.

Sanded vs. Unsanded Grout at a Glance

Factor Sanded Grout Unsanded Grout
Typical joint range Often used for joints wider than 1/8 inch; product limits vary Often used for joints up to 1/8 inch; product limits vary
Common applications Many floor tiles and wider joints Narrow joints, wall tile, and some delicate surfaces
Surface texture Can feel grainy; may be harder to clean from textured tile Smoother and easier to spread into narrow joints
Scratch concerns May scratch some polished or soft surfaces Lower risk for some delicate surfaces, but testing is still important
Wide-joint performance Generally better suited to wider joints May shrink or crack if used beyond the product’s stated range
Maintenance Cement-based formulas may need sealing, depending on the product Cement-based formulas may need sealing, depending on the product

Joint width is a useful starting point, not a substitute for the manufacturer’s directions. Many traditional guides use 1/8 inch as the dividing line: unsanded grout for narrower joints and sanded grout for wider ones. Some newer grouts cover a wider range or are designed for a specific tile type. Check the stated minimum and maximum joint width before buying.

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When to Use Sanded Grout

Sanded grout is often used when tile joints are wide enough that a sand-free cement grout could shrink excessively. The aggregate helps support the joint as the grout cures. That makes it a common option for many ceramic or porcelain tile floors, especially when the joints exceed 1/8 inch and the product is approved for the tile.

It can also work well on other installations with wider joints, such as some wall tile or mosaics. The tile’s surface matters: abrasive particles can scratch polished finishes or soft materials. A small test in an inconspicuous area can help reveal a problem, but the grout manufacturer’s compatibility guidance should come first.

Advantages of Sanded Grout

Potential Drawbacks

When to Use Unsanded Grout

Unsanded grout is commonly selected for narrow joints, often those up to 1/8 inch, when the product label permits it. Its smooth consistency can make it easier to work into tight spaces. It is also considered for polished natural stone and other surfaces that may be vulnerable to abrasion from sand.

Unsanded grout is not automatically the safest choice for every delicate tile. The tile maker may specify a particular grout, and some products can stain porous stone or glass. On some installations, a grout manufacturer may recommend a specific high-performance formula rather than traditional unsanded grout.

Advantages of Unsanded Grout

Potential Drawbacks

How Joint Width Affects the Choice

Measure the actual grout joint, not just the tile’s advertised size. Tile edges, spacing, and installation can produce joints that differ across a surface. The grout package specifies the joint widths it is designed to fill. If a project includes several joint sizes, choose a product approved for the full range rather than assuming one type will work everywhere.

Tile industry guidance commonly treats 1/8 inch as a practical dividing point for traditional sanded and unsanded grout. That is not a universal rule. Some specialty products are made for narrower or wider joints, and some unsanded products have a narrower maximum than others. The manufacturer’s technical data takes precedence over a general rule of thumb.

Match the Grout to the Tile Surface

Tile material and finish can be just as important as joint width. Sanded grout may abrade some polished stone, glass, or delicate glazes during application. Unsanded grout may be gentler in some cases, but it can still leave residue or cause discoloration if the tile is porous or chemically sensitive.

Natural stone, including marble and limestone, can absorb moisture or pigment. Glass tile may have installation requirements that differ by product. Before grouting, consult both the tile manufacturer and the grout manufacturer. When permitted, test the grout on a spare tile or an inconspicuous area and check for scratching, staining, or difficult cleanup.

Some tile manufacturers recommend a particular grout type, color, or application method. Those directions are especially important for polished stone, glass, metallic finishes, and textured or porous tile. A grout release product may be recommended for some surfaces, but it should not be used without checking compatibility.

Grout for Floors, Showers, and Backsplashes

Tile Floors

Many tile floors use sanded cement grout when the joints are wide enough and the tile surface can tolerate it. For narrow floor joints, a manufacturer-approved unsanded or high-performance grout may be suitable. Floor use alone does not determine the choice: joint width, tile material, traffic, and the product’s rating all matter.

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Showers and Other Wet Areas

Grout selection does not make a shower waterproof. The waterproofing system behind or beneath the tile is responsible for managing water; grout is not a substitute for that system. Choose grout rated for the application and follow its curing and maintenance instructions. In changes of plane—such as a wall-to-floor corner—or at movement joints, installers typically use an appropriate sealant rather than rigid grout, as specified by the system and product instructions.

Kitchen Backsplashes

Backsplashes often have relatively narrow joints, so unsanded grout or a specialty grout may be appropriate. The surface finish still matters: textured tile can trap grout, while polished or porous tile may be vulnerable to scratches or staining. A compatible grout color and careful cleanup can help avoid residue that is difficult to remove later.

Cement Grout, Epoxy Grout, and Sealing

Sanded and unsanded are not the only choices. Cement-based grouts are common and generally require careful mixing and curing. Depending on the product, sealing may be recommended to improve stain resistance. Some modern cement grouts are formulated to resist stains and may not require sealing; the label determines whether sealing is needed and when it can be applied.

Epoxy grout is a different category. It uses resin and hardener rather than relying on cement as the binder, and it is often selected for its stain and chemical resistance. It can be more difficult to install, may have a shorter working time, and may cost more than cement grout. It is not the right choice for every tile or project, so installers should check compatibility, cleanup requirements, and the manufacturer’s instructions.

Sealer is generally intended for grout, not for every tile surface. Some glazed tile does not need sealing, while certain natural stones may need a separate, compatible treatment. Applying the wrong sealer or applying it at the wrong time can create problems. Follow the grout and tile makers’ guidance.

Common Grouting Mistakes to Avoid

How to Choose the Right Grout

  1. Measure the grout joint. Use the actual installed width and note any variation.
  2. Identify the tile material and finish. Check whether it is polished, porous, textured, or prone to scratching.
  3. Check the grout’s approved uses. Confirm joint-width range, floor or wall suitability, and compatibility with wet areas.
  4. Review tile and grout manufacturer instructions. Follow the more specific requirements for the installation.
  5. Test when appropriate. A sample application can help identify scratching, staining, and cleanup issues before the full installation.
  6. Plan for maintenance. Confirm whether the grout needs sealing and use cleaning products approved for the tile and grout.

For many projects, sanded grout is the practical choice for wider joints, while unsanded grout is suited to narrow joints and some scratch-sensitive surfaces. But there is no single rule that covers every product. The safest choice is the grout specifically approved for the joint width, tile, and installation conditions.

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